How to convert 2D images into 3D scenes
Welcome back to another HitFilm tutorial.
Today we’re taking a look at how to create a 3D scene out of a 2D picture, which you
can find in the description. This effect works in both HitFilm Pro and Express, and just
a reminder we are still running our January Sale which is 25% off storewide. Let’s go
ahead and get started. We’ll begin in a new composite shot with our
image in the timeline. The comp has been set to 1920 by 1080. Our picture isn’t exactly
those dimensions, but that’s okay. To keep track of the images we’re going to make, I’ll
rename this first layer Foreground. Come up and select the Freehand Mask tool.
I’m going to draw a shape around the house, to isolate it from the background. The mask
for this has to be pretty exact- a rough shape will make it obvious that it’s a cutout. There isn’t really a good spot for me to end
the line, so just bring it back around out of frame. Now I’ll select the Rectangular
mask tool and create another shape on the left side, overlapping the one I already made. You might ask why I have two shapes, when
I could have just done it all in one. This is so that I can vary the feathering. Search
for Feather in the bar up top. I want the edge around the house to be more defined,
so I’ll keep the feather low. But for the water mask, I want it to fade much more drastically. With those two shapes done, I’ll draw one
more Ellipse mask on the right side, for the tree. Increase the feather on this one as
well. With the foreground isolated, duplicate the
layer and rename it Midground. Delete all of the masks. For now I’ll turn off the Foreground
layer, so that we can see the masks we draw. Once again, select the Freehand mask tool.
I’ll draw my shape around the scene, including this mountain and treeline. Bring the mask
around to close it. Duplicate the image once more and remove the
masks. This will be our background layer. If I turn each of the layers on, you can see
that we’ve separated the different areas. The next step is to position each layer in
3D space. Highlight the three picture layers and change them from 2D to 3D. This will automatically
create a new Camera, or you might get a popup asking if that’s what you want to do. The foreground layer will stay where it is.
Select the midground layer and go into the Controls panel. Under Transform, set the Position
to something negative, like 500. The exact number depends on the picture you use, and
how far it should appear from the camera. Because it’s been pushed back in space, the
image doesn’t fill up the screen anymore. Increase the Scale until it looks like it
did before. Now move on to the background layer, doing
the same thing but increasing how far back it is in Z space. In this case, I’ll set it
to -1000. Raise the Scale to bring it back to the right size. If I come up and select the Orbit Camera tool,
I can swing around the scene. The single image has been masked into 3 different layers, which
are all sitting in 3D space. When I move the camera, the position of these layers causes
parallax, which is what happens in real life. In the Controls panel, activate keyframes
for Position. I’ll have it start in one position, and by the end of the composite it’ll have
moved to a different spot. You don’t want to go overboard with how much movement the
camera does- too much will start to show that’s just a few flat picture layers. For a more advanced tutorial on creating 3D
scenes out of 2D pictures using projection, check out the card onscreen. Thanks for watching
and I’ll see you all in the next video.